White tie, black tie, smart casual: decoding a dress code
One line at the bottom of an invitation, and everyone asks the same questions. From the most formal to the most relaxed, what each code really means, and the golden rule when in doubt.
The invitation has arrived, thick, engraved, a little intimidating. In the bottom right-hand corner, in small letters, a line: black tie, lounge suit or smart casual. It is only two words long, yet it prompts more messages between friends than the rest of the invitation. Being well dressed does not mean being the most elegant person in the room. It means being dressed appropriately, and those two words are there to help.
White tie
The most formal code there is, and now extremely rare. It still appears for certain balls, a few state dinners and rare exceptional evenings. For men, it requires full evening dress: a black tailcoat, a white wing-collar shirt with a stiff front, a white waistcoat and bow tie, and patent leather pumps. For women, a floor-length gown is de rigueur, with long gloves and the finest jewellery. If you receive a white tie invitation, you will know: it usually comes with guidance.
Black tie
The code for grand evenings, galas, some evening weddings and official festival screenings. For men, it means a dinner suit: a black or midnight-blue jacket with satin lapels, matching trousers with a braid down the side, a white shirt, a black bow tie, ideally self-tied, and black patent or perfectly polished shoes. Braces or a cummerbund take the place of a belt.
For women, a long gown remains the reference, although a very dressy cocktail dress is often accepted. Tradition holds that a dinner suit is not worn before six in the evening. For a very formal daytime wedding, particularly in the United Kingdom, men wear a morning coat, with striped trousers and a waistcoat.
The ready-tied bow tie on an elastic band is the shameful little secret of many a dinner suit. Learning to tie your own takes ten minutes in front of a tutorial. The result, slightly asymmetrical, is exactly what makes it elegant.
Lounge suit
For men, this means a dark suit, shirt and tie; for women, an elegant dress or tailored suit of a sensible length. The French call it tenue de ville. It is the code for formal dinners, official receptions, embassy cocktails and many professional events.
Cocktail
More festive, a little less formal. Men wear a suit, with or without a tie depending on the event. Women choose a short or midi dress, smart shoes and jewellery. It is the code for private views, launches and private parties.
Smart casual
The trickiest of all, precisely because it seems relaxed. It means: no suit required, but a polished outfit. For men, cotton or wool trousers, a quality shirt or polo, a jacket, leather shoes or very plain leather trainers. For women, well-cut trousers, a skirt, a simple dress or a silk shirt. It rules out sportswear, flip-flops, slogan T-shirts and ripped jeans.
| Code | Men | Women |
|---|---|---|
| White tie | Tailcoat, white bow tie | Long gown, long gloves |
| Black tie | Dinner suit, black bow tie | Long gown or very dressy cocktail dress |
| Lounge suit | Dark suit and tie | Elegant dress or tailored suit |
| Cocktail | Suit, tie depending on the event | Dressy short or midi dress |
| Smart casual | Jacket, shirt, quality trousers | Simple, polished trousers, skirt or dress |
And when nothing is specified?
Ask your hosts or another guest, without embarrassment: it is a perfectly normal question. Take into account the time, the place and the season. A dinner at eight in a townhouse does not call for the same outfit as lunch at a country house.
A man can always take off his tie. He cannot conjure one up.
It is always better to be slightly overdressed than underdressed. And if you got it wrong, carry it off with aplomb: nobody notices an outfit worn with confidence.
